Skin Health
The skin is the body’s largest organ, the external appearance of which reflects the state of internal health. It has certain properties like elasticity and porosity that helps it to stretch to varied lengths and shapes, by which it protects all organs and tissues against damage from their environment. It can be compared to a pillow cover, that keeps the body and its contents in shape, the hair and nails being simply extensions of the skin, offering resistance to foreign bodies that may try to enter and disturb its status quo.
The finger nails and hair are made up of hard material called keratin, a protein made of dead cells which is why cutting them doesn’t hurt. The nails on the dominant hand tend to grow faster in summer than in winter, an average being 3.5mm per month. The nail plates require blood flow, nutrients and oxygen for normal growth, therefore in case of injury these connections get disrupted and fingernails stop growing. Healthy nails are normally pink, but when they turn pale or bluish they indicate low blood flow and decreased oxygen supply that requires medical attention. Brittle hair on the other hand, may be due to nutritional imbalances or deficiencies, hormonal changes or over-exposure to sunlight. Colour changes presenting as light and dark bands may also reflect toxicity from water or the environment.
The skin consists basically of two layers of cells the epidermis and dermis, the former comprising of several layers of cells that grow upwards to form a surface layer. This acts as a barrier between the environment and the body cells. With time, the surface cells die, that are constantly rubbed off and replaced from below. Routine cleanliness of the skin is therefore important to remove these, particularly the white portion of nails that we routinely clip off painlessly. Similarly scrubbers used in showers help to remove dead skin from the surface to maintain its softness and glow.
The dermis however, contains tiny sweat glands connected to the surface through canals or ducts. Hair grow from follicles in the dermis acting as barriers against entry of microorganisms, chemicals or toxins, to protect the body from infection and dehydration. When extra water is lost during activity or exercise, sensation of thirst arises due to stimulation of sensory nerve endings in the dermis. This is also evident when reflex actions occur as stimulated by pain, temperature and touch, as experienced when the hand automatically gets withdrawn on touching a hotplate. The rapid motor response is due to sensory nerve endings being stimulated, an important protective mechanism. The skin also plays a role in regulation of body temperature through perspiration from its pores, resulting in a cool feeling, a reason we perspire more in hot climates.
Skin Nutrition
Skin cells renew themselves periodically as other organs do, and therefore require nutrients for rejuvenation and maintenance. Skin health is therefore, dependent on both macro and micronutrients that are naturally supplied through balanced eating or surface application of food ingredients in the form of certain formulations. Some such mixtures or blends have been traditionally used, though now manufactured, packed and sold as ready-to-use creams, lotions and powders termed as cosmetics. Some nutrients important for enhancing skin health are:
Protein - This is important for cell growth and maintenance of elasticity in skin cells and tissues. Protein molecules vary in size, shape, chemical constituents and function, some performing carrier functions as for haemoglobin, others are enzymes, hormones and antibodies. They are also used as an alternative energy source when required. An individual requires about 1g protein per kilogram body weight while a new born gets it from breast milk for 6 months after which, food sources need to be introduced gradually to meet increasing requirements for growth and development.
Common signs of protein deficiency are easy breaking of hair and nails; ribbed nails; visible colour changes or patches in hair; although the natural slow greying seen in the elderly is considered normal as the natural pigment-producing cells decrease with age.
Fat soluble vitamins - These include vitamins A,D, E and K, which once absorbed into the body get stored and cannot be eliminated by the liver, kidney or skin and therefore with excessive intakes the body can develop toxicity.
Vitamin A - This is also known as the antioxidant or anti-infective vitamin, its chief function being to maintain healthy epithelial skin cells and membranes lining all body passages, glands and ducts. It is essential for integrity of all mucous linings as well as for night vision, through its active role in the function of the rods and cones in the retina. Deficiency may produce skin changes, night blindness and corneal ulceration.
Both yellow and orange to green coloured foods like carrot, sweet potato, mango, spinach etc provide precursors in the form of beta-carotene, that convert to the vitamin after absorption into the body. The preformed vitamin is however found in eggs, butter, full cream dairy and organ meats like liver, that stores it in the body.
It may seem laughable now, but my effort to feed the children enough carrots for protecting their eye health and vision through B-carotene, the vitamin A precursor, resulted in a pale skin and yellow eyes. This shocked me into thinking that the child had contracted jaundice. Medical examination however, showed that it was an over consumption of carotenoids which were then discontinued for normalcy.
Vitamin D or calciferol - The skin has the ability to form vitamin D when exposed to the rising and setting sun, from inactive compounds present under it. This ability gradually declines with the years, a 70-year old synthesising only about 1/8th of the vitamin in comparison to a 20-year old, partly due to changes in the structure of the skin. However, younger people can also have low levels of the vitamin since the liver and kidney are not as efficient in converting the provitamin to its active form. The absorption of preformed vitamin D from the intestine is also not very efficient, especially if diets are imbalanced and eating and living habits unpredictable.
A deficiency especially in children, leads to defective mineralization of bones leading to skeletal defects, seen as bow legs, beaded ribs, whereas in adults it causes osteomalacia from decalcification of bone shafts, with greater tendency towards fractures.
Vitamin E or tocopherol - This helps to replenish the vitamin-A stores in the body and provides a natural glow to the skin. Foods like nuts, seeds, virgin or cold pressed oils are good dietary sources of the vitamin. A number of vitamin E creams and lotions are now popular for skin care particularly for the eyes, which are surrounded by extremely delicate skin tissue.
Vitamin K - Two forms of vitamin K exist in nature, vitamin K1 chemically called phylloquinone, is present in green plants and K2 or menaquinone which results from bacterial action in the intestinal tract, absorbed into the body thereafter. The vitamin is necessary for the synthesis of prothrombin and other proteins involved in blood clotting. Vitamin K helps in wound healing and thus restores health of the skin if cut or bruised, reducing dark circles, stretch marks and scars. Dairy, cabbage, kale are good food sources of the vitamin.
It is important to remember however, that fat-soluble vitamins although vital for health, cannot be excreted from the body, so overdoses can lead to diseases. Therefore, in an effort to look beautiful one must be careful not to over consume them or their inactive forms. Water soluble forms of the vitamin are also available now, for people who cannot absorb the fat soluble form for some reason.
Once a good friend always seemed glowing, happy and active at all times, out to help others the way she could. One day, I surprised her by visiting early morning since she did not join the usual morning walk for a few days. I just could not recognise her, and thought she is very sick, since her face was black-blue, wrinkled with dull eyes. Later I found that she used make up all day, even at home. She had not allowed her skin to breathe at all or take in the sunlight to help in its regeneration or detoxification. Unfortunately, she succumbed to the toxicity since her liver and kidneys could not cope with the overload of chemicals and blockage of skin pores.
Water soluble vitamins - Those important for the skin are vitamins C, B3, B5, biotin, choline and folic acid. Since most B-vitamins affect health of the body with symptoms overlapping, they are usually prescribed as B-complex tablets, capsules or syrup in case of skin lesions.
Vitamin C - This is important for collagen formation that keeps the cells in tact, and therefore vital for skin tightness and texture. It is also a powerful antioxidant and minimises fine lines, scars and wrinkles. Foods that contribute substantial amounts of the vitamin are amla (Emblic myrobalan), guava, berries, and citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, grapefruit in addition to salad greens. In fact, when a black grape is halved and gently squeezed to cover face and neck for 15-20 minutes before washing off, the same effect can be achieved especially for crow’s feet near the eyes and fine lines around the mouth. Grapes have an ingredient used for making anti-wrinkle creams.
Vitamin B3 - Also called niacin this is essential for healthy skin, as well as for brain, nervous system and blood cells. Niacin is synthesised by the intestinal flora as well as formed in tissues from the amino acid tryptophan, which thus exerts a niacin-sparing effect in the body. Prolonged deficiency as in drought or disaster situations result in skin lesions or dermatitis that is aggravated by exposure to sunlight.
Foods rich in tryptophan like milk and eggs, have a far greater niacin potency than expected from their actual niacin content. Other food sources of the vitamin are lean meat, yeast, fish, poultry, groundnuts, pulses and whole grain cereals. Vegetables and fruits are poor sources.
Vitamin B5 - Known as pantothenic acid prevents moisture loss from the skin to keep it supple and prevent dryness. Normally no deficiency is seen, since it is synthesised by the intestinal microflora. If a deficiency does exist, it manifests as pain or sensation in arms or legs, loss of appetite, low pulse rate, fainting attacks and increase in susceptibility to infection. Good sources are avocado, seabuckthorn (aashuka ras), whole grains, pulses and chicken, though limited in milk, vegetables and fruits.
Biotin - A sulphur-containing vitamin found in nature with its bioavailability varying widely. It is stable to heat and light but unstable in acid and alkaline solution, except between a pH of 5-8. A deficiency is rare in humans but can occur when large amounts of avidin a biotin-binding protein, is present as in raw egg-white. The vitamin forms part of coenzymes that help to remove carbon dioxide from the body, playing an important role in carbohydrate and fat metabolism. Its deficiency though uncommon, can present as digestive problems, mental depression and a dry scaly skin. Some cosmetic and medical industries therefore, use it in their formulations.
Folic acid - This is vital for the creation of new cells which is why it is prescribed for pregnant women. A study reported that topical application of folic acid and creatine improved the firmness of the skin.
Choline - Choline is necessary for normal brain function as it is important for the synthesis of nerve transmitters sending and receiving messages throughout the body and its organs including the skin.
The cosmetic industry is now making products in the form of powders, creams, sprays, gels and serums, using many of the above nutrients as ingredients, to promote skin health.
Traditional cosmetics
Traditionally, these were parts of plants, flowers, leaves, barks of trees and so on. Some in common use became part of cultures adding meaning to life. India has a rich heritage of plant food ingredients that have been used for skin health, built into important ceremonies as beautifying ingredients widely used during marriage ceremonies, festivals and so on. No celebration even today, is complete without the auspiciousness of using haldi (turmeric), mehndi (Henna), capoor (camphor), saffron, chandan (sandal wood), leaves of neem, mango, asoka trees and more. Most of these are used in religious ceremonies, conducted from birth to death, every culture using nature’s gifts in their own way in different regions, some being briefly presented.
Sindhoor - This has a spiritual connotation and is a red powder called kumkum used in temples to decorate images of Goddesses, by applying it as a dot on the forehead, widely considered the place where the soul resides. After prayers the priest usually applies this powder on devotees as blessing. In some regions the red powder is used regularly in the central parting of the hair for women.
Sindhoor is applied to all temple goers as a blessing of the Divine mother imparting auspiciousness for occasions and celebrations. In marriage ceremonies the priests direct grooms to apply the same to their brides, instilling the feeling of godliness towards the husband. The practice continues through married life as a reminder to maintain harmony, love, reverence and care for each soul.
Bindi - This is the red sacred dot placed on the forehead between the eyebrows, that was considered the mark of a married woman in India. In some regions the red powder is used in the hair parting on a regular basis to signify matrimony, when it is termed as sindhhoor, typically a cosmetic not used by widows.
Henna - This is a green leaf powder of the mehndi plant made into a thick paste, used for creating designs on the skin of hands and feet. Originally it was used to cool the skin in warm climates but since the result was a red colour when washed off, it acted as a cosmetic for women. They used it to decorate the skin with patterns depicting religious or auspicious symbols suited to each festivity. Now, its application is no more gender specific or restricted to religious or auspicious symbols.
If you look at the feet of a professional dancer they are usually outlined red. Original was henna-red which has now changed to paint for ease of application and permanence. Traditionally, patterns were drawn by hand with a twig dipped in henna paste, but today it is used through piping guns much like those for icing a cake.
In different countries the designs take the form of tattoos on the skin created on any part of the body, considered trendy now even in India. The process involves use of chemicals like titanium dioxide, lead, chromium, nickel, iron oxides, ash and carbon black. Besides, making tattoos is painful compared to using henna that normally fades with time. Tattoo inks contain various pigments too, and may find their way into the lymph glands of the body, adversely affecting the immune system.
Chandan - This is a naturally scented sandal wood considered sacred and used for rituals in temples and homes. Applied as a dot on the forehead of women or as 1-3 lines with the fingers on the forehead of men, symbolically a sign of the followers of Lord Shiva.
Brahmins use the freshly ground paste prepared for prayers or any ceremony by rubbing a piece of the fragrant wood with drops of water on a stone, and collecting the paste formed for daily use. Chandan is extremely fragrant and cooling in its effect on the skin, its use being most prevalent in the hot temperate climate of the southern states of India. On drying and grinding into a powder, its paste can be used as a face mask or exfoliant and wiped or washed off for a fresh clean glowing skin.
Turmeric - Called haldi in India, is anti-inflammatory and has been shown to be comparable to cortisone and phenylbutasone in its effect. Studies have linked the spice to a number of conditions including psoriasis, an auto-immune disorder of the skin. It is non-steroidal and therefore believed to have no side effects.
In marriages, special haldi ceremonies are planned as families and friends congregate, when turmeric and sandalwood paste or powder are combined and used all over the skin to cool and freshen the body. The bride is then made to wear an old loose garment and keep it on for hours, till it dries before being allowed to clean up and bathe. The result is a clean, scrubbed skin that looks renewed, smooth, soft and glowing.
Coffee – This is usually considered a stimulating beverage, but has been used in skin care for a long time, for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, reducing redness or soreness of skin. It is now used as an ingredient in concentrated serum, scrubs and more. About 2-3 drops of a coffee serum brings the skin back to life. Used coffee with coconut or almond oil makes a fine exfoliant, reduces cellulite and ingrown hair while helping with lymphatic drainage and detoxification.
Lemon - It is amazing how something as simple as dabbing some fresh lemon juice on the face every morning can make such an enormous difference in making the skin soft. Other plant acids to use are strawberries and grapes provided they are rinsed off in 10-15 minutes. Also, the acids absorbed by the skin can cause sunburn if you step out without using a sunscreen.
Interestingly, I use lemon every morning by putting a wedge along with a teaspoon of honey as a warm drink. I then use the wedge containing the remnants of the mixture for rubbing it on the face and neck and rinse it off when the skin feels stretched or tight. Face masks have also been made freshly using a blended paste of pumpkin, honey and milk; sometimes ripe banana peel, gram flour and curd is blended into a creamy paste with rose water or an essential oil and used as a body wash.
Camphor - Known as capoor in India is commonly burned in temple lamps and prayer-rooms in homes. The black residual ash was used as the purest form of eyeliner from ancient times also called kajal or surma in different regions. Mothers used this even on infants and children and applied it using a specially designed silver applicator, sometimes applying a black dot on the forehead or face to ward off negative vibes from the air.
Datun - This has a centuries-long history in folk medicine. Since there were no toothpastes or lipsticks in ancient India, the bark of a tree Salvadora persica L., Arak in Arabic, and Peelu in Urdu was chewed till it became soft like a toothbrush (miswak) and then rubbed on the teeth for cleaning. This astringent brush-like piece of bark generally called datun gave an orange red colour to lips the shade depending on how long it was chewed, in addition to removing bad breath. Women coloured their lips this way using the bark as a cosmetic, for oral hygiene, food, fuel and even as medicine. Plant research of the different parts showed that the tree provided flavonoids, glycosides, sterols, terpenes, carbohydrates and alkaloids. An alternate was using twigs of the neem tree, chewed at one end to make it brush-like and then teeth scrubbed with it. The neem sucked in during chewing, thus acted as an antibacterial, insecticidal, cleaning and whitening agent. In addition, the chewing helped mucous secretion, detoxified while also exercised the gums and skin of the face preventing fine lines or wrinkles caused by dehydration.
Today, we can buy a toothpaste or a tooth powder containing neem, and other natural ingredients. Research has however, shown that dry brushing is more effective in removing plaque without the foam or taste of toothpaste. A study by the American Dental Association indicated a 67% reduction in plaque build-up over 6 months.
Burdock Root (Fructus arctii) - This is a member of the daisy family, native to Eurasia, a herb known as jungli kuth in India. It has been shown to be effective in the treatment of many skin conditions including eczema, psoriasis and boils. It detoxifies the skin as well as the kidneys and mucous membranes, acting as a cleansing agent to remove accumulated wastes through the pores of the skin and the excretory systems.
Fat - It is well known that fats are important for preventing the drying of the skin, a healthy skin being necessary for good muscles. Fatty acids like eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) found in fatty foods perform important functions in the maintenance of skin health. DHA is the structural component of the skin and responsible for the health of all cell membranes, whereas other essential fatty acids manage the oil production in glands under the skin, hydrate it and prevent premature ageing. They also play a role in preventing the skin from sun damage, provided we consciously consume ‘good fats’ containing mono and polyunsaturated fatty acids, as against saturated ones from processed foods. For a healthy skin therefore, it is recommended that fats from unprocessed and whole foods should be included in diets, in preference to processed, packaged ready-to-eat foods.
Acne is one of the most common skin diseases in the world. It has been believed that hair follicles assist in the development of a pimple, but according to a study the cells outside the hair follicle have a major effect in controlling bacteria and development of acne. The cells fibroblasts, are common in connective tissues throughout the skin. According to Professor Richard Gallo, Department of Dermatology at UC San Diego School of Medicine, they produce an antimicrobial peptide called cathelicidin which plays a role in acne development. To counter an infection within a hair follicle the surrounding skin undergoes a process called reactive adipogenesis in which the fibroblasts transform into fat cells. Cathelicidin is produced to help combat the infection by suppressing Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria that cause acne.
Today, massage oils are available under different brand names to choose from. In addition to being a carrier oil, coconut oil is rich in fatty acids that penetrate the hair shaft to provide strength and moisture. The rich fatty acid profile of ghee, makes it suitable for body oils and masks. Essential oils such as those of geranium, cedar wood, peppermint, rosemary, thyme, citronella and castor are also effective as anti-tic agents and can repel tics by interfering with their senses, making the human body a less desirable host. Essential oils are also added to products for fragrance. These and other ingredients have gradually transitioned smoothly, into contemporary skincare products and routines.
Sugar - This needs to be restricted or excluded from diets for a healthy skin, as it causes spikes in blood sugar levels and leads to hormonal changes that can cause acne. Refined sugar may also react with collagen in a way that the skin loses its properties of firmness and youthfulness, while also dehydrating its cells to cause wrinkling.
There is no need to completely ignore sweet cravings since they are often the body’s signal for its energy needs, much like hunger or thirst. For this, natural sugars or substitutes are a good choice in the form of stevia, monk fruit, sweet potato, beetroot, honey, jaggery and so on. Honey acts as a natural humectant and thereby attracts and retains moisture, preventing dehydration. It is now known that grapes have an ingredient used for making anti-wrinkle creams.
Dairy - Most beauticians agree that curd imparts radiance and glow to the skin both when ingested or used externally on face or body packs, as was used in homes for conditioning hair. Grandmothers traditionally, washed their hair with buttermilk for the extra sheen and protein that strengthened the roots preventing hair fall. I remember my mother-in-law had streaks of black hair at the age of 90 while mine had greyed prematurely. Of course genetic and other factors too play a role.
Herbs - are popularly used in culinary practice in India, as ingredients, decoctions and garnishes, for their colour and flavour. While using them one rarely recognises their contribution to skin health of which some in common use are:
Tulsi - also known as the ‘holy basil’ and grown in every home, prayed to at sunrise as it exhibits many medicinal properties. A leaf is often chewed as prasaad or added to tea during its preparation. It is a good source of vitamin K, and is known to maintain hormonal balance, combat acne and even diseases like cancer.
Mint - These leaves are known for decongesting the nose, throat and lungs aiding in asthma and respiratory disorders. Often forms the main ingredient in chutneys that accompany Indian meals.
Coriander - called ‘dhania’ usually made into chutneys or added to flavour soups, sauces and garnishes for dishes. Rich in dietary fibre, iron, magnesium, manganese, vitamin C, K and protein, with traces of potassium, phosphorus, calcium, carotene among other nutrients.
Mustard - this is the seed of a plant in the cabbage family commonly known as ‘sarson’ in India. Its leaves are consumed as green vegetable while the seeds are the spice for many dishes. A bit of mustard powder added to a foot-bath helps to kill fungus of athletes foot.
Kadi patta - also called curry leaves are packed with vitamins C,B, A and E in addition to fibre, calcium and phosphorus.
Moringa (Moringa oleifera) - The moringa tree is considered the ‘tree of life’ in India, also called the clarifier, horse radish or drumstick or ben oil tree used for centuries in Asia and many parts of Africa. Crushed moringa seeds are very effective against skin infected by Staphyllococcus and E.coli bacteria. It is nutrient dense although the roots are not recommended for consumption. All other parts are used especially the leaves and flowers.
Research has established that moringa is rich in protein, vitamins A, B1, B3, C, E, iron, potassium, calcium, polyphenols and antioxidants. The moringa powder is known for many health benefits including those of skin and hair due to its nutritional density. Its protein and other nutrients protect cells from damage while hydrating and detoxifying as well as preventing and curing skin infections. Moringa seed oil protects hair from the effects of free radicals to keep it in health. Its tea has now become trendy since it only requires the leaves to be steeped in hot water for a refreshing herbal tea.
The term ‘cosmo-nutrition’ has been coined from ‘cosmetic’ and ‘nutrition’ simply meaning foods or their components useful for supporting the health of the skin, used through surface application to supply nutrition to the body outside-in. The term could simply be ‘skin nutrition’ irrespective of how foods are consumed or applied to maintain it in health.
Modern cosmetics
These include the various cleansers, toners, moisturisers, skin day and night rejuvenating formulations, eye creams, shaving creams, foams and gels available under multiple brand names. Some examples of their ingredients and functioning are briefly elucidated with the help of dermatological and nutritional evidence with regard to their efficacy.
Sunscreens - The use of sunscreens block uv rays and prevent the production of vitamin D from precursors present in the skin. A product with a sun protection factor (SPF 15) reduces the production by 99%, an effect that clothes too have, when one is covered from head to toe. Similarly, glass filters out most of the uv rays and therefore, the necessity for providing open windows to let in the sunlight, when sitting behind a window.
The normal custom of offering salutations to the rising and setting sun in India, known as the surya namaskar in yoga, comes naturally to all when we face the sun to admire its beauty at both times. Most human cells have vitamin D receptors suggesting that the vitamin plays multiple roles in the body beside maintaining bone health and regulating our genes. Since vitamin D is fat-soluble even if produced in the skin on exposure to sunlight, it gets trapped in the fat tissue especially in obese persons, presenting lower blood levels. Vitamin D metabolism is a complex process and the vitamin produced in the skin varies greatly even when exposed to the sun depending largely on skin pigmentation, time of the day, age, obesity and so on.
Cleansers and moisturisers -The skin feels tight on the face after using a cleanser, due to the contraction of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Stanford researchers show how mechanical changes in the outer surface of the skin translates into sensations and provides a quantitative approach for determining how people perceive their skin after using a cleanser or moisturiser. The mechanical forces created by this shrinking and swelling propagates through the skin to reach mechanoreceptors, sense organs below the epidermis, which then send signals to the brain, that we interpret as a feeling of skin tightness. Face packs too help to tighten the skin and are used occasionally to clean out its pores and remove any accumulated dead skin on the surface to create a smooth pliable effect.
Exfoliants - These formulations also called scrubs used for removing dirt from skin pores responsible for the formation of black and white heads. Dermatologists even suggest using coffee powder or drags, combined with brown sugar and oil to form a paste and gently apply on the face, leave for 15 minutes and wash off. This also provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to the product. Some even use instant coffee or experiment with sea salt.
When using any formula or cream on the face, it is important to avoid the area around the eyes since the skin is very delicate and any scrubbing may damage the eye. Usually an eye pack is used in the form of a cotton swab dipped in rose water, a cold used tea bag, slice of cucumber or potato that cools the eye providing nutrients as well as relaxation.
Men too have become conscious of their looks as social visibility has increased in contrast to earlier lives of hard work, bread-earning and returning home for rest, food and sleep. Today, unisex or men’s salons have come up in all places to serve their cosmetic needs that are as varied as those for women.
Shaving foams and gels -A spurt of shaving foam, a few razor strokes and an after shave has become the norm, however, expert opinions differ. Such hurried methods can make the skin rough, irritated, scarred and stretched, making it look older and leathery. A shaving cream or foam is usually meant for dry skin, whereas an oily skin does better with brush-on-soap or menthol-based cream, otherwise a rash may occur. A good guide offered is :
Choose products for their action not perfume.
Avoid lemon or mentholated products
Shave in the direction of hair growth without extra close contact, as this scrapes the skin.
It is advisable not to share razors to avoid passing on skin infections.
After- shave lotions are not essential and a moisturiser or even plain water is cooling.
Traditionally skin functions were carried out in a relaxed manner by family-adopted or street vending barbers called nais. They would visit at scheduled times during holidays for haircuts, shave or massage since there were no mobile phones for fixing appointments. They were experts at removing foetal hair during ceremonies on the first birthday of a child as this was considered important for a new crown of hair.
Hair health
Hair obsession has shifted from the traditional oiling and washing in natural reetha nut powder to styling it in many ways. For centuries rosemary has been used to thicken hair and prevent thinning whereas, amla was soaked overnight in an iron vessel, strained and applied as dye and conditioner for black glossy hair. Growing up, we all had thick long platted hair, a trend that is again resurfacing except that, the mother’s loving efforts to wash weekly and maintain them have been replaced by salons for grooming as desired. Beautifying hair was done using fresh fragrant seasonal flowers traditionally, that is still in vogue particularly on special or festive occasions.
Hair was known to protect from temperature fluctuations and keep heads cool. A 2023 study says that the global hair care market for men alone is around $40 million, a lot being spent on growing it better, correcting hair fall and balding, cleaning, styling and so on.
Salons too, often prepare their own branded products for use. Science and art have truly come together in this area as the demand has grown for not only gender equality in all fields, but appearances to meet the new job aspirations of modelling, beauty competitions, photography and media visibility.
Skin care and beauty has today become an industry, trying to understand cultural habits, to inculcate traditional ways from different regions of the country for maintaining the beauty and health of the skin, hair and nails. Traditionally, this largely depended on availability, consumption and use of plants in the region. This is certainly an area of research which both the cosmetic and food industries are involved in, to create plant-based products for the modern consumer.
Fragrances
Aromatherapy is an ancient form of herbal medicine, therapists believed that essential oils, the distilled essences of flowers, herbs and plants make people feel better. In fact, the distillate of flowers or plants called itar was used by Ayurvedic practitioners, who prescribed them for relieving headaches and clearing undesirable odours in the environment by their evaporating vapours. It is widely practiced in England, France, Belgium, Germany. Today, centres have sprung up all over the world offering yoga and ancient treatments for many physical, mental and emotional problems.
Scientists are now learning that fragrances affect us more than previously thought. According to Gary Schwartz, professor of psychology at the University of Arizona:
From an evolutionary point of view, we typically don’t think the nose is important, but it is stuck square in the middle of the face. Why would something less relevant to normal activities be so prominent? It implies that there is something more important there than we may have realised.
William Dember and Joel Warm from University of Cincinnati, showed that workers receiving fragrances performed 25% better than those given only whiffs of pure air. Their findings concluded that scents can keep people more alert and improve performance of routine tasks. While performing a given task for 40 mins, some were given a whiff of peppermint or muguet 9 lily of the valley, through oxygen masks. A replicated study by Raja Parasuraman at Catholic University, Washington DC using only peppermint achieved the same findings.
Probably fragrances raise the level of physiological arousal or exert a pharmacologic effect on the centres of the brain that affect alertness. It is thus conceivable, that certain scents activate specific chemical messengers or neurotransmitters in the brain.
This could prove useful for truck drivers on long journeys, workers on long night shift duties, air travellers going through various time zones who are already being offered fragrant towels to freshen up on long hauls.
In Japan, fragrance is used in the work place. Shimizu, the largest architectural, engineering and construction firm, has developed an environmental fragrancing system that uses computerised techniques to deliver scents through its air conditioning ducts. Japanese believe that scents enhance efficiency and reduce stress among office workers.
In one experiment 13 keypunch operators were monitored 8 hours a day for a month. It was found that when the office air was scented with lavender, the errors dropped by 21%, 33% with jasmine, and 54% with jasmine and lemon aroma. Oils of lavender and chamomile are considered relaxing; lemon and jasmine stimulating; pine and eucalyptus invigorating and so on. All fragrances therefore, don’t suit everyone and should be tested for need, allergies and reactions that may occur.
Bell metal and beauty
Centuries ago bell metal or kansa was used in India as large bells adorning temples, for cooking pots in ancient kitchens, serving thalis or plates for meals, storage containers for water, called kansi in the Punjab. An attempt at rediscovering the health and beauty benefits of this ancient alloy of copper and tin is now being scientifically reported.
Today it is used for de-puffing the face and smoothening out fine lines even in the soles of feet, to balance excess pitta and promote restful sleep. As cosmetic tools and wands it has many advantages such as:
Reduces dryness and flakiness of skin by making it moist.
Decreases sensitivity of the skin and eyes
Gentle messaging of skin or face reduces signs of ageing, acne, water-retention and other inflammatory conditions of the skin.
The metal can also be used for treating cellulite and muscle tensions.
To keep the skin healthy, it is essential to follow a skin-care routine, knowing fully well that every skin has different needs. Routines that used to be generally simple and carried out after daily bath, have now become trends. All celebrations like birthdays, marriages, and achievements, have now shifted outside the home that were normally enjoyed in simple ways. Special meals, desserts and snacks were cooked together and shared with family, neighbours and friends. Some started such days visiting temples to offer the foods to their chosen diety, converting it into prasaad, before distributing it to all who were hungry.
Earlier, relatives and neighbours wished each other happily and simply enjoyed sharing their creative sweets and meals together. Today, event managers arrange even small home parties to create the most lavish celebrations professionally, saloons do the rest. There is little effort on the part of hosts, who present themselves in their best attires, looking radiant and happy for all to see. The costs however, can become phenomenal and may sometimes become a huge financial debt.
Trends
The latest trend today is to visit saloons to dress up for the smallest occasion or during festive days. Appearances have become a priority rather than feelings, as everyone wants to ‘look good’ rather than ‘feel good’ in company. Today, the emphasis is on setting up beauty competitions and modelling through use of designer outfits. In the days gone by, draping a ‘saree’ well was considered the ultimate in fashion, as it is even today in India. Being versatile in every Indian state, it is used for daily and festive occasions. In fact, it is now being used by visitors too, and has become a global trend. The same is now draped to look like a dress, stitched and or belted easy to wear.
Festival ready routines as now offered by brands through product labels and by Ceo’s at inaugurals for new products for which known personalities like actors, health, medical and social contacts are made brand ambassadors to popularise products.
Amidst all the cleaning and decorating for festivals or celebrations there may be stress-related breakouts and skin damage. A quick spray of face mist or sheet mask is handy to cool down and feel refreshed during the day. These ensure that the skin retains its moisture.
Microbiome skin care
This is also called probiotic skincare and involves the linking of the microbiome and the overall body microbiota with the health of the skin. Apart from gut bacteria the trend focuses on the microbes present in the mouth and skin, since besides boosting immunity, good gut and oral health also help to combat skin conditions like psoriasis, dermatitis and acne.
Brands are now formulating skin products that balance the skin’s bacteria using fermented tea, sake, soybeans and kombucha, claiming that while helping in tissue repair, they improve acne and are anti-ageing. Thus, skincare goes beyond the products used, and any routine followed should be simple and effortless, yet agree with individual needs.
Every skin type has a different need so there is no one formula for all, it is thus a personal choice as to what products are suitable and the routine to follow, rather than go by trending products that may not suit your skin type.
The key focus should be on remaining hydrated, including seasonal fruit and vegetables in the diet to supply nutrients, water and antioxidants through the body, that help prevent cell damage, instead of concentrating on surface treatments alone.
For working professionals use small breaks, away from work table, for a little fresh air and exercise in an effort to balance work and life.
Foods and Ingredients
From the rotting of grapes to the burning of apple crops, plant breeder’s work has taken an urgency to tackle climate change. To develop new breeds that can thrive in tough conditions, a new range of fruits and veggies are now being introduced. (New York Times).
Anhydrous or waterless cosmetics are today becoming popular world wide, in the light of water shortages. Industries need efforts to reduce water consumption by 40-60%. International cosmetic and beauty industries have already introduced products like lipsticks, face serums, shampoos and conditioners that are 90-97% water-free. In India too, brands are ensuring that products are not just eco-friendly, but cruelty-free, devoid of harmful chemicals and water conservative too. One can now buy waterless creams, foundations and lipsticks and other products. According to the founder of ‘Ruby’s Organic’ :
It is Gen Z who understands the industry’s priorities, importance of environment that’s driving this shift, and wants to be part of the change.
In fact, it is heartening to see changes that are opting for the ‘natural look’ even with bridal make-ups, to enhance beauty. In fact, the founder of ‘Soap Square’ specialises in skin and hair care products that are powder based, promoting plastic-free packaging. According to skin specialists anhydrous products are also better absorbed by the skin than water-based ones.
Many think that oil-based products cannot be used for oily skins because they clog the pores, but oils like jojoba and argan are known for their unclogging properties and can benefit damaged oily skin. Often the skin breaks out because the barrier is dry, damaged or inflamed by harsh acne products. The damaged barrier then over compensates by producing even more oil which can clog pores and further trigger outbreaks.
The variety in cosmetics today is so varied in quality, it occupies not only complete sections in supermarkets but also shelves in salons, cropping up in every possible corner of a city or even a village general store. There are now salons that cater exclusively to skin and hair treatments which were traditionally women-centric, but have now expanded to all genders. Beautifying the skin from the surface has become an industry, the customer alone having been caught in the maze.
It is no wonder then, that people are now turning back to simplicity and naturalness in every sphere to cut down the confusion.