Festive Foods
Festive foods normally bring on a smile indicating a feeling of expectation and happiness, because they are perceived as ‘special for the occasion’. This is experienced by all whether celebrating a good harvest, birthdays, marriages, national days or other occasional events. Celebration of festivals are a global phenomenon and the rituals that go into making them happy pertain to all people. However, the ways of enjoying the festivals in one country and the reasons for the celebration may differ widely in content and extent. They do however, all involve farms, foods, fasting, feasting and working of communities together. This is an attempt to basically focus on foods as traditional tools of communicating thoughts and feelings giving meaning to the process.
Traditional festivals in India are a good example of festive fare because of its cultural and religious diversity, celebrated typically in different communities according to their rituals, regional foods, languages and eating and cooking practices. It is interesting though, that most occasions of joy or otherwise are marked by social and religious customs. Since Indians believe in a single source of creation they are alive and united in spirit, thus spirituality plays a major role in every event, traditions deciding what communities come together to celebrate.
No festival starts without cleanliness and decoration in and outside homes, a bath or dip in holy rivers, preparation of food offerings, family prayers or visits to temples for seeking blessings of elders or priests. Each community offers its salutations to some Godhead or spiritual guru for granting of prayers. People follow some ancient texts that act as guides, be it the Gita, Quran, Bible, Guru Granth Sahib or other. A few festivals are discussed as examples.
Indian festivals
Most festival dates are fixed according to the ‘lunar calendar’ so they do not fall on the same day, date or time each year, as those in the ‘solar calendar’. The lunar calendar is believed to have originated in India and followed much before the English version was established. It is also widely used in Asian countries like China, those bordering the Pacific and the Middle East.
The Lunar calendar
This is based on the synodic revolution of the moon around the earth as well as the earth’s revolution around the sun. Every complete revolution corresponds to one lunar month hence some months are shorter than others, the average being 29-1/2 days. In general a year has 12 months and about 354 days, making it shorter by about 11 days compared to the solar year, the difference accounted for by adding an extra lunar month once every 2-1/2 years. The extra month is known as Adhik Mas similar to the Blue Moon concept in the West that occurs almost with the same frequency.
The dates and timings of festivals or rituals are fixed according to the waxing and waning of the moon leading to a bright full moon or Purnima, on the 15th day . This is followed by the gradual waning of the moon the Krishna paksh, depending on the appearance of the moon or sun in the different regions. The night when no moon is visible is Amavasya, meaning new moon or no moon. In India, the lunar calendar is used in the north, a lunar day being determined by the period between two sunrises, considered equivalent to a week day as per the solar calendar, used mainly in the south (Sethi and Jain, 2007).
Festive Foods
All food evolves and adapts to local tastes developed through traditions, culture, history, language, climate, and more. Celebrating a good harvest is common to all agricultural economies, and coincides with the various seasons and regions in every country. Some are briefly spelt out as examples prepared for each festival.
Harvest Festivals - These are generally known as festivals of ‘Energy’ associated with rituals and celebrations, offering thanksgiving to ‘Nature’ represented by Surya, the Sun God.
Makar Sankranti signifies a celebration of plenty as the winter gives way to spring, the sun moving towards the Uttarayana, providing warmth to the earth, that is therefore revered as ‘Mother’ in India. With the heat the seeds that lay dormant now begin to sprout and therefore, the Sun God is worshipped, as its energy helps to generate life-nurturing produce. It is believed that by worshipping the sun, life on earth is blessed with peace and prosperity.
The tradition of kite flying early morning exposed the body to the sun’s rays proving beneficial for health. There is an old Chinese saying - Those who fly a kite can have a long life. Focussing the eyes on the kite serves the same purpose as that of health-preserving qigong, and the effect is in line with mind cultivation in Chinese medicine. In Nepal, it is believed that kite-flying is a means of guiding recently relieved souls to heaven, bringing prosperity to the family. Ancient Maoris saw kites as connecting heaven and earth. They believed that kites were messengers like birds with spiritual connections. France too celebrates an International Kite Festival at Berck, where 100-metre long kites are seen, inspired by whales, seahorses, octopuses and so on.
Makar Sankranti has strong regional flavours and is known as Lohri in Punjab, Sankranti in Bengal, Magha Bihu in Assam, Pongal and Tai pongal in Tamilnadu and Kerala respectively. Pongal celebrations spread over 3 days, the first Bhogi, followed by Makar Sankranti when rice and lentils are cooked in ghee, jaggery and sugar, the contents being allowed to boil over, signifying plenty and prosperity. The third day is Maatu Pongal when cows are bathed with turmeric paste and worshipped.
Lohri - A festival of Punjab celebrating a good harvest, probably originated from the term loh, referring to the tawa or iron sheet through which heat is passed on to cook chapatis made and served to the community, called langar. Lohri is the festival that rings in the New Year, with the ritual of offering water to the rising sun. This forms an important part of the Surya namaskar offered daily as part of puja, or yogic discipline.
Our scriptures thus link heat and fire to the cosmic energy represented by bonfires and havans on special occasions since the fire sanctifies our endeavour for a good life on the one hand and destruction of evil on the other. Ghee is used to keep the fires burning generating good will and well-being. Lohri generates a lot of bonhomie around a bonfire into which food like til (gingelly) seeds, peanuts, flattened rice, jaggery are offered. The festivities embody the spirit of brotherhood, unity, gratitude with family reunions generating happiness, goodwill and cheer.
It is interesting to note that Zoroaster was one of those who enlightened the people of western Asia. Like Krishna, Buddha and Moses he established a civilisation that lasted for centuries. There is still living in India a small God loving community that follows Zoroaster called ‘Parsees’ who observe the principles learnt of good thought, deeds and speech. As a symbol of the great fire, Zoroastrians always keep a fire burning in their temples and are thought of as worshippers of fire.
Holi - This is a festival of colours that falls in spring when nature’s colours are in full bloom spreading their beauty, fragrances, friendship and joy all around. In the texts it is known as rangbhari ekadashi as it arrives in March every year on the full moon day. It is a celebration of nature when the weather is usually pleasant being ideal for experiencing love, friendship and bonding. It is celebrated in different ways in the various regions but the spirit remains.
Holi also coincides with the harvesting of the rabi crop and was traditionally celebrated using natural colours of plants, but then it gradually transformed into chemical colours for permanence. Colours whisper, speak, sing and dance expressing moods and feelings, through language, song and rhythms all their own. According to the Vaishnavi Tantra:
… each and every expression of this universe has its own rhythm, vibration, sound, sweetness, colour and form. The blue colour of Vishnu the signature of Krishna who is ghanashyam, the colour of rain clouds of ashada, are all colours that draw people to Him.
Sant Kabir in his verse or doha uses a pun on lal which means both beloved and the colour red.
Lali mere lala ki jita dekhun tita lal, lali dekhna main gayi main bhi ho gayi lal.
‘My beloved’s red colour is everywhere and when I went to see it I got coloured in His colour.’
Red thus, became the traditional choice for celebrations in general. Natural colours were made in advance mixing turmeric, henna, ground leaves, rose or other petals mixed with flour and used for applying on each other. These have today changed to different secondary hues using chemicals that can be toxic to the skin, and not easy to wash away.
Foods - With summer arriving and roses in full bloom, rose water and fresh petals adorn cooling beverages and desserts making them attractive, fragrant and delightful to the senses. Called gulukand in north India, it is made from organic, fragrant rose petals and not hybrids, into a jam and kept preserved for use as required. This is also used as a sweetener wrapped in beetal leaves along with other selected spices like cardamom, fennel, anise and more, chewed as a digestive and mouth freshener after meals, called paan. The traditional sweet prepared on Holi is the gujiya which is basically a filled deep-fried wrap. With traditions getting global adaptations have been made to use the preserve in tarts, truffles, mousses, icecreams, while using ovens or air-fryers for making products less oily.
Akshaya Tritaya or Akha Teej - This is considered highly auspicious and falls on the 3rd lunar day of the bright half in the month of Baisakh or Vaisakha. Akshaya means that which is never destroyed or everlasting. It is a day of great spiritual significance believed to bring good luck and success in new ventures, investments and relationships. Customs and rituals involve waking before sunrise, bathing in holy waters, visiting temples to offer prayers seeking blessings for prosperity and success.
Akshaya Tritiya is also traditionally associated with purchases of gold, silver or other precious items signifying bringing home prosperity and good fortune, gold symbolising strength, beauty and prosperity. However, today shopping goes beyond tradition to buying electronics, automobiles, real estate and so on for making significant investments. The combination of shopping and seeking blessings is unique and even those who do not buy gold, silver or diamond jewellery, do at least buy a gold coin.
Modern day consumerism is on display accompanied by the joy of shopping. The festival is a reminder of the importance of prosperity and joy in life. The poorest dress up in new clothes, pray, purchase or start a venture. If not gold, they buy ghee which is also known for its purity and auspiciousness. The festival is believed to be blessed by Lord Vishnu and therefore auspicious for new beginnings.
Raksha Bandhan - Raksha means protection and bandhan a bond, also referred to as Bhaiya Duj or Rakhi in different regions. It signifies the sacred bond of love between sisters and brothers, and acts as an annual reminder to promote respect and safety of women. The celebration involves prayerfully taking a vow to live a life of purity in thoughts, words and deeds, relationships being the essence of the celebrations. It is a north Indian festival but now celebrated all over the country. It involves tying a sacred thread around the wrist, reminding brothers of their moral responsibility of protecting their sisters from all harm and rejoicing with them in good times, a reminder of brotherhood in families and society. So tying this ‘knot of protection’ is not only about exchanging gifts, but brothers too, earn unstinting love from their sisters lifelong.
In ancient India, priests tied the sacred thread or mouli on the wrist of all members of a family at havans, the sacred fire, performed during marriages, or in temples making the ritual vish tarak -the destroyer of venom, punya pradayak- bestower of boons and paap nashak-destroyer of sins. It symbolises the oneness of humanity by spreading the message of protection and peaceful coexistence.
Today, the festival is celebrated among friends and neighbours too, for inculcating peaceful coexistence that has spread globally. People tie the ‘rakhi’ as a symbol of protection to policemen, armed personnel protecting the country from external dangers or evil powers. Legend has it that ‘raksha bandhan’ turned enemy kings into protectors with a change of heart, when rival queens sent rakhis to them. Why not use this to create a safer environment not only for women but beings in general.
Unfortunately among the rich, ‘Raksha bandhan’ has now become a festival of showing off money power and egos, thanks to commercialisation of festivals. The simple, humble sacred thread has been replaced by expensive rakhis or even watches that act as gifts, taking away from the sanctity and purity of relations, giving way to egoistic and competitive behaviours.
Festive Food - There are as many holidays as festivals in India with special food preparations for each. One is familiar with the chhappan bhog or 56 foods prepared at Janamashtmi, Lord Krishna’s birthday, the modaks at Ganesh Chaturthi and the turkey, puddings and cakes at Xmas, family prayers and special meals at Diwali, Eid and so on. All signify efforts to spread the light of knowledge and remove darkness from our lives in search of happiness. In addition, there are lavish celebrations for social reasons compared to other countries, since there were strong family and social bonds between people. After a brief visit to India Oprah Winfrey said:
…there is an order in India among the external chaos everywhere, as people live religion by starting and ending their days with prayer. It is not merely a weekly visit to the church or place of worship as in the west.
The results are evident today. Only a few decades ago when we grew up, divorces, suicides and mental problems were unheard of. Today however, there is need to harmonise bonds as western influences and lifestyles are being adopted by the younger generations. The difference is that ethical conduct and actual face to face contact has been separated gradually, in preference to speed of action and reaction in life, creating vibrations of instability.
While a complete reversal of trends is not possible efforts need to be made to reduce the damage through collective action, to reduce use of technology in favour of human interaction. While science without religion or spirituality can do us great harm, so can religion without science. Progress towards the singular goal of unity through ‘love’ is only possible with the help of both working in tandem, discovering ways and means of using the unique mind given only to humans, endowed with the power to think, feel and act together in search of happiness.
Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, used to organise public celebrations to promote communal harmony in Bengal. This can be adapted to create a more humane and caring society, where all rich and poor feel safe and joyful.